“With vaccines that are repeated year after year, the frequency and severity of these side-effects in our pets has increased dramatically. Most of the problems involve the immune system. After all, the immune system is what vaccines are designed to stimulate. But they do so in a very unnatural way that can overwhelm and confuse the immune system.” Dr. Donna Starita Mehan DVM

Dr. Ronald D. Schultz, Ph.D..- “Annual revaccination provides no benefit and may increase the risk for adverse reactions. The percentage of vaccinated animals (those vaccinated only as puppies) protected from clinical disease after challenge with canine distemper virus, canine parvovirus and canine adenovirus in the study was greater than 95%.” Current and Future Canine and Feline Vaccination Programs. Dr. Ronald Schultz is a Professor and Chair of the Department of Pathobiological Sciences at the School of Veterinary Medicine, UW-Madison. Schultz, R.D. – Current and Future Canine and Feline Vaccination Programs. Vet Med 3: No. 3, 233-254, 1998

Dr. Charles E Loops DVM – “The first thing that must change with routine vaccinations is the myth that vaccines are not harmful. Veterinarians and animal guardians have to come to realise that they are not protecting animals from disease by annual vaccinations, but in fact, are destroying the health and immune systems of these same animals they love and care for Homeopathic veterinarians and other holistic practitioners have maintained for some time that vaccinations do more harm than they provide benefits. Vaccinations represent a major assault on the body’s immune system…. Vaccine induced chronic diseases range from life-threatening conditions such as auto-immune crises to conditions destroying the quality of life of an animal as in chronic skin allergies.”

Dr. Dee Blanco, D.V.M – “You take healthy animals and often very quickly after you vaccinate, you can see simple things like itching of the skin or excessive licking of the paws, sometimes even with no eruptions and licking of the air. We see a lot of epilepsy/seizure, often after a rabies vaccination. Or dogs or cats can become aggressive for several days. Frequently, you’ll see urinary tract infections in cats, often within three months after their [annual] vaccination. If you step back, open your mind and heart, you’ll start to see patterns of illness post-vaccination.” (veterinarians have also observed vaccinosis symptom of severe inflammation of the tail)

Dr. Pat Bradley, DVM  –
“In a general and frightening context, I see the overall health and longevity of animals deteriorating. The bodies of most animals have a tremendous capacity to detoxify poisons, but they do have a limit. I think we often exceed that limit and overwhelm the body’s immune system function with toxins from vaccines. The most common problems I see that are directly related to vaccines on a day to day basis are ear or skin conditions, such as chronic discharges and itching. I also see behavior problems such as fearfulness or aggression. Often guardians will report that these begin shortly after vaccination and are exacerbated with every vaccine.”

Dr. Dennis Macy DVM – “We should not allow politics and tradition or greed to enter the decision (on frequency of vaccination). Changing vaccination schedules doesn’t have to mean less profit, but that you have more income from some clients and less from others. Veterinarians and the industry need to have guts to be honest with ourselves and assess the risk and not be trapped in tradition.” – Dr. Dennis Macy in “Are We Vaccinating Too Much?” AVMA Journal, 1995

Dr. Christina Chambreau, DVM – “Routine vaccinations are probably the worst thing that we do for our animals. They cause all types of illnesses but not directly to where we would relate them definitely to be caused by the vaccine. Repeating vaccinations on a yearly basis undermines the whole energetic well-being of our animals. Animals do not seem to be decimated by one or two vaccines when they are young and veterinary immunologists tell us that viral vaccines need only be given once or twice in an animal’s life. First, there is no need for annual vaccinations and, second, they definitely cause chronic disease. As a homoeopath, it is almost impossible to cure an animal without first addressing the problems that vaccines have caused to the animal, no matter what the species.”

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association – Adverse events diagnosed within three days of vaccine administration in dogs
A study of more than 2,000 cats and dogs in the United Kingdom by Canine Health Concern showed a 1 in 10 risk of adverse reactions from vaccines. This contradicts what the vaccine manufacturers report for rates of adverse reactions, which is “less than 15 adverse reactions in 100,000 animals vaccinated” (0.015 percent).  Additionally, adverse reactions of small breeds are 10 times higher than large breeds, suggesting standard vaccine doses are too high for smaller animals.

The Pet Wellness has been successful in getting the Texas Department of Health Services to propose a rule change. It will be published for public comment in October. In the meantime, we must truly marshal our forces to counteract what is surely to be a nasty fight. There is so much myth and misinformation surrounding rabies in companion animals. Our laws are at least 20 years behind our knowledge of vaccinology.  Please help  (sign the petitions) us get wider awareness of the proposed rule change and the need for people to speak out on the need for reform in rabies laws, starting with an exemption for sick and senior pets.

A great number of studies have shown that when you vaccinate an animal, the body’s inflammatory cytokines not only increase dramatically, but so do the brain’s inflammatory chemicals. Many pet guardians observe changes in a pet subsequent to the first series of animal vaccinations – lethargy, vomiting, itching, ear or eye discharge, to name but a few. The veterinarian will reassure you that these symptoms are normal. Sadly, for some companion animals, these symptoms worsen and lead to death. For other pets, they lead to a lifetime of health problems.

[Quotes found on Shirley's Wellness Cafe]

The term AAFCO stands for the Association of American Feed Control Officials. A basic goal of AAFCO is to provide a mechanism for developing and implementing uniform and equitable laws, regulations, standards and enforcement policies for regulating the manufacture, distribution and sale of animal feeds; resulting in safe, effective, and useful feeds. The Association thereby promotes new ideas and innovative procedures and urges their adoption by member agencies, for uniformity.

Purpose and Function of AAFCO:

The purpose of the corporation shall be to establish and maintain an Association through which officials of any state, dominion, federal or other governmental agency and employees thereof charged with a responsibility in enforcing the laws regulating the production, labeling, distribution, or sale of animal feeds or livestock remedies may unite to explore the problems encountered in administering such laws, to develop just and equitable standards, definitions and policies to be followed in enforcing such laws, to promote uniformity in such laws, regulations and enforcement policies, and to cooperate with members of the industry producing such products in order to promote the effectiveness and usefulness of such products.

What a mouthful, eh? Let’s dumb it down a bit. On another website, ‘Pet Connection‘ – they define AAFCO as:

…a private group that defines food and feed ingredients, and sets standards for nutritional levels for pet foods and animal feeds, as well as for feeding tests conducted under AAFCO guidelines.

AAFCO is not a regulatory body, but an association of state and federal regulatory agents. They also consult with advisers from the pet food and livestock feed industries, and with academics and researchers. And while they’ve unquestionably conquered the pet food marketplace, their guidelines have garnered criticism from a number of sources.

That’s a bit easier to understand. So, if you see ‘AAFCO Approved’ on your bag of Cat Food – you will know that it meets regulatory guidelines for Pet Health… but does it really matter? There has been quite a bit of controversy that I have recently come across about whether or not it means anything to have ‘AAFCO Approved’ on your pet food bag.

In the words of Quinton Rogers, DVM, PhD, one of the AAFCO panel experts, “although the AAFCO profiles are better than nothing, they provide false securities. I don’t know of any studies showing their adequacies and inadequacies.” Rogers also states that some of the foods which pass AAFCO feeding trials are actually inadequate for long term nutrition, but there is no way of knowing which foods these are under present regulations (Smith, 1993).

A “maintenance” claim requires that 6 out of 8 healthy dogs or cats are kept alive for 26 weeks on the diet, without losing more than 10 percent of their body weight or having certain blood levels fall below specified levels, and passing an examination by a veterinarian at the trial’s beginning and conclusion.

The controversy is that the AAFCO’s passing guidelines don’t give the overall stamp of “perfect for your pet’s health” . This does not cover the lifetime over all foundation of health for the animal. It just keeps them alive and able to pass a Veterinary Clinic physical. Some may say “better than nothing”, and I agree – it’s in the very least ‘balanced nutrition’, but definitely not a defining approval of THE BEST for your Cat/Dog.

While veterinary nutritionists acknowledge that some foods formulated to meet AAFCO guidelines would flunk a feeding trial, it’s a good start. But doesn’t cover everything in whole.

I personally feel a little disturbed that they run ‘trials’ on live animals. I feel it’s a bit unfair for those who experience a “flunked” test. Wouldn’t the Pet owning world be better off if a Whole and Organic diet was the standard and requirement for Pet Health? There are so many pet foods available at the store that are literally junk for your animals health. In my opinion, those foods would be IAMS & Friskies to name a few. Thankfully quite a few “cheap” brands have come out with Organic and whole food. In which case, I would say their ‘Organic’ brands are good. But the other is still junk My equivalent to their food would be like us trying to live on cake our whole life. Sure it has ‘some’ good ingredients, but the overall health benefit is not good at all.

To name a few ingredients to determine ‘junk’ from good food, is to know what a by-product is (from Wiki):

Meat by-products are ground and cleaned slaughtered meat carcass parts such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, bones, heads, and intestines (and a small amount of feathers in the case of chicken meat). The terms meat by-products or animal by-products are often used in reference to the ingredients included in commercial pet foods.

Are you in the mood for a big piece of carcass? GROSS! I grew up with Cats & Dogs my whole life. We had neighbors who raised chickens and ever so often our Cats would catch one (tee hee) and they ate ALL the good meat and never the guts and certainly not the feet! Same with random birds and mice. They knew what was good for them, so why are we feeding them feet, necks, undeveloped eggs and intestines? GROSS!!! blah!

For Cats – who are by nature ‘carnivores’ , the first ingredients of ANY food should be a ‘whole meat’. Not corn or wheat (or guts). They don’t need carbohydrates, so why should the first few ingredients be carbs?  The first ingredient in the list determines what the largest portion will be in the food. Thus, it should be meat. Same goes for dog food.

So AAFCO may be the determining factor of what food will keep your dog/cat alive – but does it really tell you what the BEST food for your Cat and Dog will be? No. They simply brand the food that will help keep your pet alive… not necessary healthy.

I will say that it is better than a non-approved AAFCO cat/dog food. My 2 cents would be to pick Organic, and actually provide whole and top-notch nutrition for your pet. This would give them lifelong health. ♥

View lists of Cat & Dog Food that will actually keep your pet HEALTHY:

• dog food holistic
• cat food holistic
  

As I read through some articles and books on Cat behavior, I found that some cats just need to be soothed, like we adults need comfort food (i.e. Chocolate or our favorite blanket or TV show, etc).  Kitties will push and pull their paws in and out on soft surfaces like blankets, for instance – Hero doing this behavior on any fur-like blanket/material.  Sometimes this is accompanied by a bit of drooling. Your kitty may look absolutely content during such episodes and may even purr. Hero looks like he’s in seventh heaven and purrs like an engine, lol!

Several theories exist for the behavior. Some people think it stems from them being weaned too young. Some think it is because they were weaned too late. The most logical explanation, however, is that it’s simply a comfort behavior that cats remember from when they are babies. Nursing kittens use similar paw and arm movements to stimulate milk flow from their mothers’ nipples. Momma Kitty also kneads the sleeping area to create a nice soft surface for her and her kittens. Whatever the precise reason for kneading, one thing is for sure: A kneady cat is a happy cat.

Cat kneading motion can be painful if your cat is in the habit of kneading with its claws bared. Kittens knead with their claws retracted because their Momma Kitty prefers it that way. You can train your kitty to knead with claws unretracted, by gently tossing them off your lap when they use their claws, and praising them when they kneads gently without using their claws. Or you could just put a nice thick blanket on your lap and relax. This is one of Clark’s favorite things to do, is get our big furry blanket that Hero loves, and takes his afternoon nap with Hero.

Kneading is a sign that your cat is happy, comfortable and relaxed. You should feel proud if your cat deems you worthy of sharing this pleasure and it’s your cat’s way of saying he’s glad you are there. It’s nice to be ‘kneaded’!

Clark and I bought Hero a ‘buddy’. He LOVES this stuffed animal dog we bought him, particualrly for the ‘fur-like’ material he has. He literally drags this puppy around the Apartment wherever he goes, and can go for hours just kneading it. Check out this video and picture. It’s his best friend, next to Tiny Kitty:

For behavioral disorders similar to this ‘kneading’, you may want to check out this other post:

• Why does my cat like to eat plastic and suck on blankets?

Get your Kitty his/her own ‘Buddy’ to Knead and pal around with like Hero’s:

Click Here

I have been surrounded by cats and kittens since I was born. I always played with them on a daily basis – which made them very people friendly. Particularly when they were used to me dressing them up in doll clothes . Considering this, you want to make sure they are held, played with from a young age to help them to get used to being held as an adult and socialized. It’s important that Cats enjoy playing so they have a strong immune system and social skills as an older cat.

When my husband and I first got Hero, we tried using double sided sticky tape on the floor to deter him from entering a room and scratching on the couch or going underneath the couch. Hero didn’t like the tape at first – but then he started enjoying this as a game and would lick the tape. When that didn’t work we tried getting a plastic computer chair mat and put the bumpy side up to discourage him from entering the room. Again, he found it like a game and would quickly scoot across the mat. Then we tried the ‘squirt bottle’ method, and he found that to be a game too. We felt like we tried everything in the book – and still no luck. Then… an idea popped into my head when I remembered watching a Mother Cat of mine, discipline her young. She’d quickly pin the kitten down with her paw and give a low growl.

I shared this idea with Clark and we immediately put our “Momma Cat” hat on and pretended to be ‘the disciplining mother’. When Hero did something we didn’t want him to do or go [into the room we didn't want him to go into] we’d say the word “No” in a very low and growly tone. While doing this we very lightly & gently — but firmly (so they can’t wiggle away) pinned him in place while growling the “No”. After a few times doing this, he quickly got the point where all we had to say was “No” in a low tone and he’d immediately stop what he was doing/ where he was going and would turn away.

When Tiny came into our home, we applied this method and it worked like a charm. Hopefully this will work for you, let me know. Also, if you’re confused at all with what I’ve said – please feel free to ask any questions…

Clark has done wonders in teaching Hero tricks, below is a video of his talent in teaching Hero to ‘beg’ for food.

More Cat Training Ideas:

• 50 Ways to Train Your Cat
• How to Toilet Train Your Cat
  

7 reasons dogs and cats should not get table scraps or eat people food

by: Alexis Jenny

1. Giving pets table scraps supplements their diets with unnecessary calories. Animals depend on the nutrients found in food specially formulated for them. If they eat people food, they will eat less of their own food and miss out on adequate nutrition.

COMMENTS FROM DR. WYNN: There are really two different issues. Yes, most dogs and cats eat formulated foods, designed to provide complete nutrition. If you provide a lot of some other, non balanced food, it could cause very real deficiencies. But this one irks me – “Giving pets table scraps supplements their diets with unnecessary calories”. Well, yeah, if you assume people are giving junk food, pure meat and cheese, etc. But let’s try to parse this out for the majority of people who are capable of understanding the difference between veggies/fruits and everything else. How about a better sweeping statement, that goes like this: “Giving pets table scraps supplements their diets with unnecessary calories, unless the scraps consist primarily of fresh veggies and fruits”.

2. Animals who eat their normal amount of pet food in addition to the extra calories in table scraps can easily gain weight. Obesity puts animals at risk for health problems.

COMMENTS: see #1

3. Receiving table scraps or people food encourages unhealthy food behaviors. It can cause food aggression in both cats and dogs, and it encourages begging at the table.

COMMENTS: Ok, help people understand how to give fresh foods in the bowl at mealtime, or as a reward for a requested behavior.

4. Some food is toxic to cats. Cats are carnivorous and cannot digest many vegetables or starch. Franny Syufy from About.com reminds pet owners that “…may have forgotten that the gravy slathered over your Thanksgiving turkey used broth that was flavored with onion, among other things. While it is tasty and harmless to humans, onions are very toxic to cats.” In her article titled “Human Foods for Cats?” Syufy lists onions, garlic, green tomatoes, raw potatoes, root vegetables, chocolate, grapes and raisins, and milk as food especially toxic to cats. (If the cats insist on drinking milk, they should drink lactose free milk such as CatSip, which can be purchased at most pet stores.)

COMMENTS: milk toxic to cats? Are you kidding me? OK, some cats might not tolerate it, like humans with lactose intolerance, but toxic? And what on earth is she talking about with root vegetables being toxic? Ok, onions are toxic, but sweet potatos? Burdock? Perhaps we need better sources for our information than About.com?

5. Some foods are toxic to dogs, such as chocolate in large quantities, and dairy products. Onions can also be poisonous to dogs so pet owners should be aware of the ingredients in anything they feed to animals (even onion powder can have adverse effects on pets.) Fatty foods can lead to pancreatitis, and excessive levels of sugar can lead to obesity and diabetes.

OK, I’ll support this except that I still don’t think that lactose intolerance is in the same class with toxicity.

6. Animals cannot digest all food. Corn and sugar are especially tough on animals’ digestive systems. Potatoes, lunch meat, and condiments often have high sugar contents.

COMMENT: I’m not sure what this means – corn and sugar are tough on digestive systems? Sugar is highly digestible, but lots of it will lead to metabolic problems. Corn – it’s not digestible if given as whole kernels because none of us break down that cellulose kernel coat very well. But it’s digestible if processed either by human teeth (dogs don’t spend a lot of time chewing), a food processor, or in dog food factories. Do we want a corn-BASED diet? No, but let’s try more precision when we talk about the effect corn has on digestive systems.

7. Any meat product containing bones can break and puncture the throat, stomach, or intestines, or cause constipation by actually blocking the digestive path. Even if bones do not cause an injury, they are sure to cause discomfort. Crushed bones or very frail bones typically do not cause problems. (If the dog insists on getting the bone from the roast, monitor the dog and remove the bone once it breaks or becomes small enough to be a choking hazard.)

COMMENT: I’ll go with this. By the way, I’ve never found authoritative support for the raw feeding claim that cooked bones are more brittle than raw ones. I can see how it might be true but I’ve never seen a good explanation. Has anyone else?
Likewise, dogs receive too much protein from cat food, and dog food lacks important nutrients like taurine for cats. There’s a reason these foods are labeled for what they are. The best way to ensure animals get adequate nutrition is to find a quality pet food they enjoy and stay consistent.

COMMENT: Cat foods do not supply too much protein to dogs. Protein is not toxic unless you have severe kidney disease. What cat foods do provide along with all that meat is a high fat level, and that can lead to diarrhea and/or pancreatitis. But there is no doubt that cats can die from eating dog food – which I’ve seen happen when food is left down for the dog free choice – yet another reason not to do that!

List of Human Food Dangerous for Cats & Dogs:

• Bones from fish, poultry & other meat sources: Can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system.
• Cat food given to Dogs: Generally too high in protein and fats.
• Chocolate, tea, coffee and other caffeine: Contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can be toxic and affect the heart and nervous systems.
• Citrus Oil Extracts: Can cause vomiting.
• Fat Trimmings: Can cause pancreatitis.
• Grapes and Raisins: Contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys. There have been no problems associated with grape seed extract.
• Hops: Unknown compound causes panting, increased heart rate, elevated temperature, seizures, and death.
• Human Vitamin Supplements Containing Iron: Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys.
• Large amounts of liver: Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.
• Milk and other dairy products: Some adult dogs and cats do not have sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, which breaks down the lactose in milk. This can result in diarrhea. Lactose-free milk products are available for pets.
• Moldy or spoiled food, garbage: Can contain multiple toxins causing vomiting and diarrhea and can also affect other organs.
• Mushrooms: Can contain toxins, which may affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.
• Onions and garlic (raw, cooked, or powder): Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs. Garlic is less toxic than onions.
• Potato, rhubarb, and tomato leaves; potato and tomato stems: Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems. This is more of a problem in livestock.
• Raw Eggs: Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella.
• Raw Fish: Can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. More common if raw fish is fed regularly.
• Salt: If eaten in large quantities it may lead to electrolyte imbalances.
• String: Can become trapped in the digestive system; called a “string foreign body.”
• Sugary Foods: Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes mellitus.
• Table Scraps: Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of the diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat; bones should not be fed.
• Yeast Dough: Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.

Other websites to consider looking into for more information about making or purchasing homemade pet food:

• PetDiets.com
• BalanceIt.com

Holistic/Organic food is produced without the use of: Conventional pesticides, Synthetic fertilizers, Sewage sludge, GMO grains, Irradiation.

Holistic/Organic farms are committed to: conservation of soil & water, environmental quality for a sustainable and contaminant free future.

Knowing this information, you can be better informed in your decision making about your pet’s health. Cheap and easy doesn’t always save you money when later down the road your pet develops health problems. Get informed and educated now and decide what is most important to you: saving money and taking your chances or spend a little extra now and spare yourself the trip(s) to the vet later – where you’re likely to spend FAR more than had you provided your pet with added nutrition and a lack of harmful pesticides & chemicals.

• Blue Buffalo
• Felidae
• Life’s Abundance dry
• Natural Planets
• Newman’s Own Organics Premium Pet Food
• Organix
• PetGuard
• Solid Gold
• Wellness

More cat food organic:

Some natural organic canned cat foods include Natural Balance, Evanger’s Organic Braised Chicken, and Nature’s Logic. Natural Balance doesn’t contain by-products, and they do offer indoor formulas. In addition, this company tests for seven known toxins to ensure quality. Evanger has been in business since 1935, and their canned cat food is kosher-approved and contains human-grade ingredients. Nature’s Logic is a good fit for more sensitive cats. Their food is free of ingredients that commonly cause irritation including wheat, corn, rice, soy, potato and chemically created vitamins, minerals and nutrients.

Do You Know What Your Pet is Eating?

It wasn’t until the early 1900s that we produced the first bag of cat food, more for our own convenience than the well being of our feline friends, whose digestive systems were designed to process live meat, a far cry from dry kibble.

The cat is more than a carnivore — she is an obligate carnivore. To survive, the cat must eat meat.

Basic Cat Nutritional Requirements:

Cats, like all animals, require six classes of nutrients:

• Water
• Energy
• Protein
• Essential fatty acids
• Minerals
• Vitamins

Notice that carbohydrates are not listed. Cats have essentially NO requirement for carbohydrates, deriving all of their energy needs from a diet rich in protein and fat. The only carbohydrates their ancestors ate were the vegetables in the digestive tracts of their prey, which were already “pre-digested.” These carbohydrates made up about 3-5 percent of the cats’ diet.

The metabolic requirement for glucose in your cat is derived from proteins (glucogenic amino acids) and fats (glycerol) — she has no mechanism for converting carbohydrates to energy, like dogs and humans do. This is why animal protein is so crucial for cats

Cats need more protein than other carnivores.

What’s In Your Bag of Cat Food?

Now, take a look at the label on that bag of dry cat food in your pantry. Even if you have a “reputable” brand, chances are it has a fair amount of vegetable-derived carbohydrate and grain ingredients:

• Corn
• Wheat
• Rice
• Soy

One primary reason is that it’s hard to make a dry kibble without those things. Typical dry foods are 35-40 percent carbohydrate, and some are as high as 50 percent.

So, you’ve been feeding your precious felines a diet lower in protein, lower in moisture, and higher in carbohydrate than what they are biologically designed to eat.

The end result?

Cats now share one major health problem with their human companions: obesity. Read more here…

UPDATE 07/18/09: I received some very VALUABLE information today from my Holistic Veterinarian John Limehouse DVM of Limehouse Veterinary Clinic . I had no clue about RAW diets and the potential harm that they could do to an animal if improperly cooked. Here is what he said:

“PT and I and many other vets do not agree with raw food diets since so many animals get E. coli or Salmonella from them. Also, all home cooked menus need to be analyzed to make sure they are balanced and this does cost money. Every time the diet is changed, it should be reanalyzed. Go to Susan Wynn’s web and blog. She is about the sharpest veterinarian out there. She has so many advanced studies and is just completing her latest one in Nutrition and will be a Board Certified Veterinary Nutritionist.
Here is one link to her: VetNutrition.blogspot.com“– John B. Limehouse, DVM, CVA (IVAS), FAAVA

[Sources:  HolisticPetFood , Mercola ]

Holistic/Organic food is produced without the use of: Conventional pesticides, Synthetic fertilizers, Sewage sludge, GMO grains, Irradiation.

Holistic/Organic farms are committed to: conservation of soil & water, environmental quality for a sustainable and contaminant free future.

Knowing this information, you can be better informed in your decision making about your pet’s health. Cheap and easy doesn’t always save you money when later down the road your pet develops health problems. Get informed and educated now and decide what is most important to you: saving money and taking your chances or spend a little extra now and spare yourself the trip(s) to the vet later – where you’re likely to spend FAR more than had you provided your pet with added nutrition and a lack of harmful pesticides & chemicals.

Top Rated Organic/Holistic Dog Food Brands:

• Blue Buffalo
• Canidae
• Karma
• Life’s Abundance dry
• Natural Planets
• Newman’s Own Organics Premium Pet Food
• Organix
• PetGuard
• Solid Gold
• Wellness

More dog food organic:

1. Azmira – Whole Dog Journal has recognized Azmira as one of the best holistic dog foods every year since 2000. Their food includes only natural ingredients and is designed to be part of a larger holistic lifestyle.

2. California Natural – California Natural received 4.5 out of 5 stars from Epinions.com users; reviews most often praised it as a great food for dogs with allergies. The food is designed to be suitable for dogs with sensitive systems, with a short ingredient list of one protein, one fat, and one carbohydrate.

3. Homemade Food — So many of the best dog foods boast human-grade ingredients. Why not take matters into your own hands and give your dog food made with the “human-grade ingredients” in your own kitchen? With homemade food, you have the ultimate control over what your dog eats. There are no unknown ingredients, and you can control the quality of everything your pet eats.

There are numerous sites online offering potential recipes. For instance, Recipezaar offers over 200 pet food recipes, although a good deal of them are treats instead of everyday food. Natural Dog Food provides a list of “emergency food” which can be a good starting point for making the switch. You can also experiment with your own combinations of meat and vegetables. Consult your veterinarian before starting a homemade food diet to make sure you are providing all the nutrients your dog needs. You should also familiarize yourself with the human foods that can be harmful to dogs.

4. Raw Food — The concept behind the raw food diet is that dogs should eat raw meat and bones just like they would if they were living in the wild; raw food is the way nature intended animals to eat. ShirleysWellnessCafe.com explains some of the philosophies behind the diet and provides several recipe ideas. You should check with your veterinarian before switching to a raw food diet to ensure you are taking care of your dog’s nutritional needs. There is also some controversy surrounding the raw food diet, with opponents arguing that uncooked meat can harbor harmful bacteria, so those interested in this diet should research it carefully before making an informed decision.

5. Steve’s Real Food – If you’re interested in a raw food diet but you don’t have the time or the inclination to provide fresh meat and bones yourself, you can turn to Steve’s Real Food. Using all-natural ingredients, the brand’s nuggets and patties are promised to be “a 100% complete and balanced diet for all ages & stages of your pets development.” In an overview of dog foods, ConsumerSearch listed it among its top foods.

6. Orijen — While Orijen actually eschews the term “holistic”, the food is actually one of the best holistic dog foods because it fits the basic holistic ideals of healthy , natural food. By providing meat, vegetables, and grains in a ratio of 70/30/0, the company feels it is creating “Biologically Appropriate” food for dogs. It is a top-rated product among consumer dog food reviewers at Rate It All.

Do You Know What Your Pet is Eating?

(1) Corn Meal, Corn Gluten Meal, Corn Oil: Corn is indigestible to dogs, due to their short intestine.

(2) Chicken By-Product: Ingredients listed as animal by-products are not required to include actual meat. Chicken by-products may include intestine, chicken heads, feathers, bone, beaks, and feet.

(3) Dried Egg Product: Ingredients listed as ‘product’ may include an unspecified part of the product. In this case, egg product may include eggshells, and may also not include any egg whites.

(4) Natural Chicken Flavor: Any flavor added reflects the lack of flavor in the main food ingredients.

(5) Soybean Meal:  Filler product of little to no nutritional value to dogs.

(6) BHA/BHT: Chemical preservatives that have been banned for human use in many countries. They are still allowed for use in pet foods in the U.S.

UPDATE 07/18/09: I received some very VALUABLE information today from my Holistic Veterinarian John Limehouse DVM of Limehouse Veterinary Clinic . I had no clue about RAW diets and the potential harm that they could do to an animal if improperly cooked. Here is what he said:

“PT and I and many other vets do not agree with raw food diets since so many animals get E. coli or Salmonella from them. Also, all home cooked menus need to be analyzed to make sure they are balanced and this does cost money. Every time the diet is changed, it should be reanalyzed. Go to Susan Wynn’s web and blog. She is about the sharpest veterinarian out there. She has so many advanced studies and is just completing her latest one in Nutrition and will be a Board Certified Veterinary Nutritionist.
Here is one link to her: VetNutrition.blogspot.com“– John B. Limehouse, DVM, CVA (IVAS), FAAVA

[Sources: LoveToKnow, HolisticPetFood , APlusRiverRanch]

What happens when I do disrupt the ‘way of things’ in a “Alpha Cat” role when I pull back Hero and bring Tiny to the dish -  is later in the day I”ll hear them fight. It’s never a hostile fight, just a “re-establishing of the hierarchy”. [To learn more about what to look out for and what not to worry about in Cat Fights, read my recent article I posted called 'Understanding Cat Fights'.]

So, what I have to learn and remember is to trust Hero – because he really does leave enough for Tiny and sometimes he’ll let her eat along with him. He does look WAY bigger than Tiny, but that’s just his breed. They grow to be 20 lbs and he’s only 17lb. Tiny is part Siamese Snowshoe (& part Ragdoll) and they generally are quite a bit smaller. Sometimes Hero does eat too fast and throws up, but that is rare. Again, common of his breed.

If your Cat does appear to not be sharing or keeping the food dish to him/her self  – do not punish them. Observe and see if they do the same thing as Hero does in leaving enough for the others. If there is cause for concern separate them in different rooms when feeding. The trouble I have in doing that is Tiny WILL NOT eat without Hero. She cries and cries for him (breaks my heart) and Hero gets jealous of Tiny eating what he hasn’t inspected yet. So I am lucky in that he leaves enough for her.

Aggression

Cats also fight as a result of some kind of redirected aggression and this is quite common, especially with indoor cats. Your cat might be looking outside the window at another cat or dog who comes by their view often – crossing the yard. Your cat begins to feel territorial and aggressive at this cat, but since this other cat/dog cannot be reached, he/she may instead attack the other family cat. Another example is if you are giving your cats treats or special food – or just food in general. My Cat Hero will get jealous if I hold him back from eating too fast and let Tiny Kitty eat for a bit. Usually later in the day after ‘interrupting their habitual ritual in eating’, I’ll hear them fighting in an unplayful way. This also shows the behavior of re-establishing who is the “Alpha” kitty of the house.

Territory

One of the reasons that cats fight is because they feel like an unwanted cat has invaded their territory, even if it is a cat that has lived with them for a long time. Cats are much more territorial than dogs and the gender of the cat has very little to do with it.  If you have two cats in your home, you might notice that one cat hisses and swats at the other whenever he feels his territory has been invaded. This can also happen if you bring a new cat into the home. They are simply defending their territory.

Social Ranking

Male cats frequently threaten and fight with each other for social ranking — even neutered males may do this. One cat is usually considered the “alpha male” and will be at the top of the cat hierarchy.  Often times female cats will work their way up the hierachy, even above a male. There are usually no injuries sustained in these kinds of fights. You may even notice that kittens or young cats play with one another this way. Most of the time, you will not need to interfere.

If you find your cats fighting occasionally, you should know that this is common and quite typical of cats. Most of the time, you will be able to tell whether or not your cats are fighting for “blood” or just playing around. The time to stop a fight is when it gets nasty otherwise; allow your cats to work it out themselves. If you feel the need to stop a catfight, then you should do it carefully. Even the most loving cat can bite or scratch you in aggressive passion.

To stop a fight, you should make some kind of loud noise, such as a handclap. Since cats are startled by loud noises, they will both stop to see what is making the noise.

When you find your cats fighting, it is best not to punish the cats for their fight. Cats do not understand punishment and fighting is a natural instinct in cats. The best thing to do is only interfere when necessary. If you find your cats are fighting more than they should, it is time that you find out why. Do they fight over a litter box, a food bowl or a prime window location? Make sure each kitty has his or her own “things” and a place to retreat when they feel overwhelmed by other pets in the house. This will go a long way in preventing real catfights.

[Info Source: PetsNanny ]

Some believe that cats like the texture of plastic when they lick. Another theory is that some plastic is made with some rendered animal fat which cats may be able to smell or detect. Another explanation is that some plastics have petroleum products and gelatin as ingredients.

For example, my male cat Hero, LOVES to lick tape. I’ve always found it to be really weird. He also loves to suck on plastic and tape as well. Not only that, but he sucks on wool and nurses it like a baby kitty even though he’s full grown and over 2 years old. So bizarre. Thankfully he doesn’t eat the wool, and only licks the tape until I snatch it away from him.

Regardless of why they do it, cats will often play, pounce, prey and sometimes eat those objects. It becomes a problem when cats cannot digest it and it becomes a gastrointestinal obstruction.

For cats that have this tendency to eat strange items, it is very important to keep plastics picked up and unavailable to cats. I myself don’t always remember, but I usually am quick to respond to the rustling of any plastic sound.

For more information about a disorder attached to this behavior – research more on ‘Pica in Cats‘.

“Pica” (pronounced “PIE-kuh”) is the voluntary ingestion of non-edible materials. The term comes from the Latin word “magpie”, because magpies are said to eat almost anything. Pica accounts for approximately 2.5% of abnormal behaviors in the domestic cat. The etiology of true pica is not known, although mineral deficiencies or psychological disturbances are often blamed.